50th Anniversary Special Interview
MIDWEST 50th Anniversary Special Dialogue
Takenori Osawa × Takuro Ogasawara
A place to connect designers' creations to the next generation
Founded in Nagoya in 1976, MIDWEST celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. While walking alongside domestic and international brands and creators, the company has continued to convey the thoughts and craftsmanship of designers, establishing a unique presence in the Japanese fashion scene.
For this milestone year, the company plans to open a store in "HAERA," a new commercial facility to be born in Sakae, Nagoya, and hold a special exhibition featuring 50 brands to commemorate its 50th anniversary. Projects aimed at connecting designers' creations to the next generation are now underway.
This special dialogue features Takenori Osawa, second-generation President and CEO of MIDWEST, and Takuro Ogasawara, an editorial writer for the Senken Shimbun who has been covering the global fashion scene for nearly 30 years. Both born in Aichi Prefecture, the two have observed Japanese and global fashion from different perspectives. We asked them to discuss the sensibilities nurtured by the city of Nagoya, the values MIDWEST has cherished for 50 years, and what Japanese fashion should pass on to the future—looking back at the past, assessing the present, and envisioning the future on this special occasion.
Nagoya, where a unique fashion culture takes root
――Both of you are from Aichi Prefecture. How do you think the city of Nagoya has influenced your respective approaches to clothing?
Ogasawara: When I was in high school, the DC brand boom was in full swing, and there was so much excitement that queues for the sale at the "NOVA" fashion building in Sakae would stretch for blocks. At the same time, the punk movement was flourishing, with punks gathering in the underground shopping malls of Sakae before heading out to clubs. It was a time when such a unique culture was alive and well. There was a level of intensity unique to Nagoya that was different from both Tokyo and Osaka.
Osawa: Since Nagoya is sandwiched between Tokyo and Osaka, I feel there is a temperament to observe both when moving forward. In fact, we operate stores in Tokyo, Nagoya, and Osaka, and the response to new things is overwhelmingly faster in Tokyo. On the other hand, customers in Nagoya are cautious and take time to properly evaluate things before acting. I believe that carefulness is also characteristic of this city.
Personally, I was devoted to kendo until high school, living a life with almost no breaks except for New Year's. However, I remember being surprised to see a MIDWEST novelty cushion in a classmate's car, thinking, "Huh? Is our store that well-known?" I didn't truly learn about fashion until I entered the industry.
――When did you first visit MIDWEST, Mr. Ogasawara?
Ogasawara: Back in my university days. It was when the store was still in Chikusa. I also used to frequent other shops nearby. Nagoya at the time was a regional city, yet it had a distinct culture firmly rooted in the area, and the passion for fashion was high.
――How have you viewed MIDWEST as a shop, Mr. Ogasawara?
Ogasawara: Shops that were quick to carry "PAUL SMITH" in those days often went on to become the number one store in their region. MIDWEST was one of them. The influence of "PAUL SMITH" at that time was truly significant.
Honestly, though, I didn't view it very positively during the period when they were increasing their original products (laughs). But after that, the store returned to its roots of carefully selecting and selling designer brands.
Osawa: I myself was always against original products. A select shop is inherently a place to introduce designers' creations to customers. I felt that increasing original items to expand the business was like a high-end yakiniku restaurant selling 500-yen short ribs. In the end, the original products disappeared, and we returned to competing solely with select items. I feel that has led to our current form, and it is what defines the "MIDWEST-ness."
Trust with designers built through "integrity"
――MIDWEST is known for its close ties with designers, with renowned designers like Raf Simons and Kris Van Assche visiting the shop privately. What have you cherished in building relationships of trust with brands?
Osawa: We have had a relationship with "RAF SIMONS" since the early days of the brand. I am not particularly fluent in English, but I have always valued communication. I have never once given advice on design, but as a retailer, I have been straightforward about what I should communicate, such as delivery schedules and reactions in the Japanese market.
Another thing I value is never delaying payments by even a single day. I considered it a matter of course and kept doing it, but recently a sales representative from a brand told me, "No matter who I ask, everyone says MIDWEST is reliable when it comes to payments." I felt that the things we have built up over many years have gradually led to trust.
――So that sincere attitude is what leads to trust with designers.
Osawa: Thankfully, I've heard that it sometimes spreads by word of mouth among overseas designers that "you should go to MIDWEST first."
――From your perspective, Mr. Ogasawara, what are MIDWEST's strengths?
Ogasawara: I think it was significant that Takenori-san stopped selling original products. While many select shops were strengthening their private brands and expanding their businesses, MIDWEST once again faced its original purpose of delivering designers' creations. I believe that stance has, as a result, led to the trust from designers.
――What is it that you value at MIDWEST?
Osawa: Deepening our staff's understanding of brands. We take them to Paris Fashion Week and invite the designers themselves to hold study sessions. Whether or not staff who have a deep understanding of a brand's background and creation are on the floor makes a big difference in how it is conveyed to the customer.
Instead of just selling products, if we can convey the background of how that clothing was born and the designer's thoughts, customers will feel that they are glad to have come to this store. I think I have invested the most in such human resource development.
A full-scale 50th-anniversary project and a new store where shoes take the lead
――For this 50th anniversary, an exhibition of works by 50 designers has been realized.
Osawa: When I first said, "Because it's our 50th anniversary, I want to do a project where 50 brands participate," even the staff said, "That would be difficult, wouldn't it?" (laughs). For example, it took until the very end to coordinate permission from Raf Simons, and Rick Owens usually doesn't participate in such individual store projects, but they evaluated our track record of ordering from them for 22 years without a single break, so they cooperated with us.
The works displayed this time will then travel to Nagoya, Osaka, and Tokyo as part of a charity auction. I hope this project will not only look back on our 50 years but also connect to the next generation.
Ogasawara: Since these are one-of-a-kind items, it's interesting to see how each designer approaches it. Satoshi Kuwata of "SETCHU" said, "I never lower the quality between samples and mass production," and when I touched the coat he made for this, it was cashmere. If sold, it would probably cost around 1.4 million yen.
――Also, at this 50th-anniversary timing, you are opening a new store in the luxury mall "HAERA" in Sakae, Nagoya.
Osawa: The new store will be a gallery-like space with shoes as the centerpiece. We will make it a base where we can transmit events and projects with designers that we have held in Tokyo to Nagoya as well.
――MIDWEST has a strong image for shoe proposals.
Osawa: In fact, the sales composition ratio of shoes is quite high. We have also been particular about our customer service. For instance, we don't put mirrors in our fitting rooms. If there's a mirror, customers won't come out. By having them come out, our staff can propose a full-body outfit.
When they come out of the fitting room, we have them wear shoes that match the outfit, allowing them to enjoy the full-body styling. As a result of accumulating such service, shoes have become one of MIDWEST's strengths. The new store will also have an abundant lineup from imported to domestic designer brands. It's actually a business model that hasn't existed before.
Ogasawara: I still remember the sight of "DIRK BIKKEMBERGS" shoes lined up when you opened a store in Shibuya PARCO in the past. I've had the impression that shoes are a strength since then.
The future of Japanese fashion, where hope and crisis coexist
――Finally, how do you see the current state of the Japanese fashion world?
Ogasawara: Japan might be the only country in the world today where young designers emerge one after another. In the background, there are domestic factories and artisans with excellent technology. Because there are people who are somehow hanging on even in difficult circumstances, new creations are being born.
On the other hand, in recent years, the acquisition of domestic factories by foreign capital has been progressing. If excellent factories are fenced off by overseas companies, young designers may not be able to commission them. Before that happens, I think it is necessary for Japanese companies and the industry as a whole to think about a system to support technology.
Osawa: Japanese designers are doing truly wonderful craftsmanship. However, in terms of business scale, there is still a big gap with overseas brands. In many cases abroad, there is a management partner, and the designer can focus on creation, but in Japan, the designer is almost always shouldering management themselves. When sales become difficult, conflicts arise between the expression they originally want to do and the business side.
That is why I want to support designers, even a little, by having retailers like us sell firmly. Also, even though attention from the world to Japan is definitely increasing, I feel it is a waste to see the number of brands participating in "Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo" decreasing. There should still be great potential in Japanese fashion.
PROFILE
Takuro Ogasawara
Editorial Writer, Senken Shimbun
Born in Aichi Prefecture in 1966. Joined Senken Shimbun in 1992. Began covering European men's collections in 1995, and has been in charge of European and New York women's collections since 2002. Has been covering and contemplating the global fashion scene for over 30 years. Has covered over 15,000 fashion shows and is known as one of Japan's leading fashion journalists.
Takenori Osawa
President and Representative Director, Fashion Core Midwest Co., Ltd.
Born in Aichi Prefecture in 1968. As the second generation of the select shop MIDWEST, founded in 1976, he became President and Representative Director in 2023. While overseeing store operations in Tokyo, Nagoya, and Osaka, he manages buying both domestically and internationally. Has built relationships of trust with domestic and international designers over many years and handles the production of bespoke projects and events.
Text Mami Osugi
Photo Ko Tsuchiya